Traditional T8 end caps for direct replacement of Fluorescent Lamps.
Lasting 2x longer, reducing the need for lamp replacement.
Reduces consumption to one third of the fluorescent equivalent. Waterproof IP67.
Use Magnetic Ballast with a starter.
| T8 LED | T8 FLUORESCENT | |
|---|---|---|
| 9W | = | 18W |
| 11W | = | 25W |
| 13W | = | 30W |
| 16W | = | 38W |
| 17W | = | 36W |
| Code | Nominal LED Watt | = Fluorescent Watt | Length | Diameter | Energy | kWh/1000h |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| FFEET25 | 17W | 24W | 30″/750mm | T8-26mm | A+ | 8.5 |
| FFEET36 | 29W | 36W | 48″/1200mm | T8-26mm | A+ | 13 |
| Code | Nominal LED Watt | = Fluorescent Watt | Length | Diameter | Energy | kWh/1000h |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| FFEEB36 | 29W | 36W | 48″/1200mm | T8-26mm | A+ | 14 |
At either end of a fluorescent lamp you will see two brass coloured connection pins. These are the electrodes that take energy from the controller to start and run the lamp. These are quite fragile by nature. It is imperative that both pins are safely located into the pin sockets inside the lamp holder before the lamp is pressed into place. Failure to line the pins up correctly will cause the pins to bend and snap and break through the lamp cap rendering the lamp unusable.
The Ultra-seal lamp ring must be unscrewed from the lamp holder and placed over the lamp prior to fitting and only re-seated onto the lamp holder when you are sure that the lamp pins are seated correctly. High Output T5 lamp leads must be fully unwound also or you may notice lamp flickering or beaks in illumination. You can also use a very small amount of a substance like Vaseline to lubricate the lamp ring and so stop it fusing to the lamp after long periods of heat. After cooling lamps can be wiped clean with a damp cloth once every two weeks or so to remove any dust build up from the lamp, this in turn will help to maintain the lamps full output. The all important reflector should also be wiped clean at the same time.
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